Aleppo (Halep)

I was so exhausted that, while typing some thoughts of the day down on my computer, I fell asleep several times. So, I slept, for 12 hours straight. Apparently, right after I laid down, Robin came out of the shower and asked me a question. I had fallen so fast asleep, that I began to sleep talk and walk, rambling on about photos and madly gesticulating my artistic direction. We had a good laugh about this the next morning... though apparently I did have some bright ideas in subconcious rant.

We checked out of the Baron, and made our way out into the city. Though we were a mere 60 minutes from Turkey, I immediately saw it: Syria.

The old part of town was lovely and exotic, retaining so much of it’s character in architecture and local dress. The bazaar was lively, and here we met many kind shop keepers. I purchased some sweets to send home, and was given a ‘discount’ of several free extras by the excited shopkeeper. We were invited for several cups of tea by different patrons, all intensely curious about our upbringing and visit to their country. These people were so generous, it was almost astounding.

We also drank several cups of Syrian coffee. This coffee is different from Turkish coffee: more tangy in taste, and without the grounds. At first taste, I didn’t like it, but, later in my sejour à l’Orient, acquired an appreciation for this unique derivative of my favorite beans.

The citidel, the center of the old city, hovers over the uniform height of the surrounding city structure.  The locals hung around the entrance, enjoying this piece of the past set below storybook clouds.

Inside, it was stunning. People crawled like ants over the hodgepodge of paths, walls, and buildings, or the remnants thereof.

I met many overtly friendly young Syrians here, eager to speak to me and find out where I was from. The women, were mostly covered, which I found to be so beautiful. 

 

After the citidel, we visited an old mosque. We were provided robes for entering, which made us clumsy and fidgety. Climbing atop for some spectacular views, we enjoyed one last look at Halep.

We grabbed falafel to go (my favorite on-the-run meal here . Delicious and cheap, about 0.50USD) and were off: on the road to Damascus. We passed some gorgeous sunsets on the way, and were treated to several pieces of gum  and family photos by our fellow passengers. Again, the hospitality surprised us!

The Road to Syria

Deciding to venture off the Turkish track, My friend Robin (Canadian, 26, English Teacher/ Aspiring Journalist and World Leader)  and I decided to head south, into the Middle East. Syria, with it’s shared border with Turkey, cheap currency (Syrian Pounds,  if you were wondering) and exotic allure made it the perfect destination. As icing on the cake, I had met several travelers who had just past through the region to sing it’s praises. So, we marked it on our calendars, and planned to meet in eastern Turkey, in the border city of Antakya.

Antakya, as well as being the gateway to Syrian- bound travelers, is also a marvel in it’s own right. Known in biblical times as the city of Antioch, this sea-side settlement has a long history and remarkable religious importance. St. Peter and St. Paul lived here for 3 years, preaching out of a certain cave-church, spreading the words of Christianity at the beginning of it all. We visited this church on our way home from Syria; perched high on a hill, we soaked in the warmth of the sun and the peaceful ambience of the chapel.

Now, coming into Antakya, I arrived late, via BUS. Why is ‘bus’ in capitals, do you ask? Well, my friend, that is because, to get to this side of the country, there was an ungodly excess of this thing.  I had taken a 19 hour bus from Fethiye, my little port heaven, to the buslting masses of Gaziantep in Eastern Turkey. There, I stopped for a few hours, taking a short trip into town to search out the baklava this city is so very famous for. I found the place my handy Lonely Planet dictated was the best, and oh, did it live up to it’s title!

From Gaziantepe, I took a 4.5 hour bus south,  to Antakya. I arrived around 9pm, loitered around the station, and patiently awaiting the arrival of my friend. I met some very interesting characters, one of which was Tama. Tama, a very kind and helpful Syrian man, was currently travelling on business, as had had all over the world. He was eager to help me on my venture into Syria, and expressed disappointment in the Western media for painting it such a dangerous and volatile place. He walked me though my coming visit, warning me of the scams, and giving me advice. He reiterated what I had heard before - that Syria is safe, and the people are extremely friendly. He gave me his name and number, inviting me to his home if I were to venture towards Homs.

Robin arrived in the wee hours of the morning, having taken then train from Istanbul (the famous Orient Express route!). We hung out at the bus station, where the restaurant  patron lent us his couches for a couple hours. He even offered us free food and drinks, which felt a bit odd, as we were in a restaurant. At 5am, we were up and waiting to board our bus to the border.

After an hour on the road, we reached the Turkish/ Syrian border. We exited the bus, and formed a line; one by one, the Turkish official stamp-approved out exit. Then, we re-boarded and drove for about 10 minutes through the large, hilly expanse that was No Man's Land. I was genuinely surprised by this. I guess I had expected parallel lines of grave-looking army men, standing meters apart, staring fiercely into the eyes of the 'enemy'. Overactive imagination, I guess. Not the first time!

On the Syrian side, we applied for our visas. After a few questions about the next couple days, Robin obtained her visa- with a hefty 56USD fee. I,  of different nationality, and, frankly, not one on particularly good terms with this country, had to wait for approval from Damascus. After 3 hours of waiting , the very friendly chief (a young, strapping, 30-something) informed me they were working on it - the line in Damascus was busy.

2 hours after this, he invited me into his office for tea and a chat, along with another high ranking official.  They were both very kind, apologizing for the wait. The chief gave me his name and number as well, encouraging me to visit him if I made it to Homs, his home town as well as Tama's. I finished my tea, said a number of thanks, and headed out with Robin.

We had met a Turkish man in the lobby, and he informed us he was heading to Aleppo (known as Halep) too. He offered us a ride, and we took it cautiously. Though you can most times distinguish the genuine people from the bad ones, we still were on edge.

Exhausted, we arrived in Halep that evening. We checked into the historic Hotel Baron, where the likes of Agatha Christie, Lawrence of Arabia, and Teddy Roosevelt have stayed, among many other names.

The owner himself, was everything we could have wanted. He made us feel right at home, treating us to tea and coffee, and helping us with everything. He even drove us personally to the old city the next day. Wallid was such a wonderful person to meet; the embodiment of Syrian hospitality and generosity.

 It was a very nice hotel; the museum feel and our extended exhaustion gave us some of the best sleep we've had in a while. After two nights of very little of that sweet stuff, it was definitely needed!

Fethiye & Ölüdeniz

I arrived late to Fethiye, but woke early due to excitement. Why was I excited? Well, for one thing, I was in Fethiye. For another, I could run here! I took a leisurely jog around the harbor.

Fethiye is a charming, sleepy port city. Covered streets and quaint cafes waited patiently in the town. Yachts and small fishing boats crowded the harbor.

My first day, I took one of the popular island boat trips out into the Mediterranean. We visited all of six islands, stopping to swim at teach one. The Mediterranean is incredibly salty here, not to mention freezing. I was one of only a handful of people who braved the cool royal blue water. Floating was a synch, and delightful! 

What fantastic scenery! I had a great day with the people I met on the boat.

 

 The next morning, I hikes a short way up the cliffs surrounding the city. Here, Lycian rock tombs are carved into the face of the cliff. They were bother spooky and impressive, providing beautiful views of the city.

Tiring of tombs, I took a handy dolmuş ride to lively Ölüdeniz, one of the most beautiful beaches in Turkey. A picture of this destination (literally "The Dead Sea") is featured on every brochure of Turkish Places to Go. It was stunning, certainly though no pictures of mine could really capture it. I'm in dire need of a sun screen for my camera.

I swam here too – and, if you can believe it, it was even saltier! After a few experiments, I discovered that, with my body straight down in the water, I only had to fill my lungs with air to float effortlessly. No treading water here! The salt did, however, make swimming a bit awkward. My butt kept breaching the surface of the sea, making for an uncomfortable breaststroke. Showers were provided on the beach for after your swim; the excess minerals leave a film on your skin, and you hair in impossible knots.

All in all, I give Fethiye two toes way, way up. A great stop.

Pamukkale

I was up and out of my hotel early, catch my tour bus to my next destination – Pamukkale. After a quick stop for breakfast, and a long 3.5 hour drive inland, we finally made it. 

Pamukkale, a natural occurrence, is unique in this world. Formed by calcium deposits and water seeping up through the earth, this was a sight to behold! We took off our shoes, and waded into the pools. The scenery was fantastic. The company was entertaining. The water was a cool contrast to the baking sun. 

For an extra fee of 25 lira, you could swim in “Cleopatra’s pool”, a pool filled with natural water of 36 degrees, and covering age-old stones, broken marble, and fallen columns. I was content just to take a picture. Budget travelers must live without certain luxuries.

We only had a short time to visit the ruins of Hieropolis, literally the Sacred City. An amphitheatre, tucked neatly into a hillside, a Temple of Apollo, and the Martidium of St.Phillip, where he was martyred and then buried, were just a few of the ruins. Again, gorgeous natural setting.

 

On my way back to Bodrum, the tour bus was kind enough to drop me off in Mugla, much closer to my next destination, Fethiye, than Bodrum. An interesting cultural note: hitch hiking is a very acceptable practice here. Waiting at the bus stop to catch a particular coach that was due to pass soon, I was honked at my nearly every car that passed. Four cars pulled over and asked me if I wanted a ride in that direction. I played it safe, though, and when said coach bus approached, I flagged it down. Pretty nice, system, actually, but only if you are the hitcher. For the bus rider, the frequent stops can be very annoying.

Ephesus, and Selçuk

Opting not to do a tour, I decided today to do Ephesus on my own. I caught a series of buses to the sight, but made it in good time. Plus, my new friends at the Otogar treated me to several cups of tea and nice conversation before the trip. I just LOVE that custom - the complimentary tea.

Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient Greek Ruins. It’s a sprawling city, even today, with floods of tourists visiting from every corner of the globe. It was the capital of Asia Minor, the home of St. John and the Virgin Mary after the death of Jesus, and recipient of biblical letters from Paul (to the Ephesians. From theatres, to baths, from libraries to Chapels dedicated to the Virgin Mary, these ruins have it all. Not to mention set in a stunning natural landscape.

A photo reel can show better than I can tell. Enjoy this fascinating place; I certainly did!

 Afterwards, on my way home, I was planning to catch a dolmus to Selçuk, a nearby town, and a bus straight to Bodrum. A young shopper, off to lunch in town, gave me a lift on his scooter. We zipped along the short highway to central Selçuk, a fantastic time. I had a few hours before my bus, so I set to exploring… and had a blast. St. John’s Basilica, where he was buried, is here. Set again in breathtaking nature, it was a timeless place.

The Castle in the distance... closed due to restoration, though some sketch characters told me they could take me in for a fee.

After this, I was sucked into a carpet shop by a friendly owner. I was offered Turkish coffee, and then a few teas, as we chatted for an hour. What great conversation! His family is from the Lake Van area, very near the border to Iran. He is the first generation to leave his nomadic Kurdish tribe (as in, no electricity, born in a tent, ect.!) – and, due to fortunate circumstances, has been able to travel many places to promote his business. He is also a frequent couch-surfing host. He showed me these cats specific to the Lake Van region, special because they are white, with one blue eye, and one green eye. Gorgeous!

 We had great conversation, and I was reluctant to leave. 

Selçuk was a pleasant surprise – laid back, friendly, and beautiful. 

Bodrum - Formerly Known as Halicarnassus

After an irritating, idiotic, yet undeniably entertaining airport skirmish that resulted in my baggage being sent to Bodrum without me, I arrived a day later than planned to this coastal Aegean city. And yes, I reconnected with my trusty backpack, which had been safeguarded the previous night in a very secure location: propped up outside a door. Thank goodness I had removed all of my valuables beforehand.

I caught the handy Havas bus into central Bodrum, and quickly found my hostel. However, no one was in, and, after knocking on a few doors and calling for someone, anyone, to no avail, I decided to check in somewhere else. On the same street there were two hotels. One was cheaper, and run by a very kind, and very large, family: thus, my new accommodation.

After a quick nap, I tossed my camera bag over my shoulder, and headed out to explore the town. It’s a coastal port city, hence the seashore was cluttered with weathered fishing boats and luxury yachts alike. There was a sweet breeze blowing in off the sea, and the locals were friendly and relaxed.  I wandered for a bit around the covered streets, enjoying the architecture – there is a law restricting the height of the buildings, creating an idyllic atmosphere with the uniform whitewashed buildings.

 

Then, I visited St. Peter’s Castle. How cool! There were a myriad of rooms, including a fascinating torture chamber. It was very well preserved, and, situated next to a crystal sea, was çok güzel, as my Turkish friends say.

There was a peacock in one of the courtyards.

He later made a sneaky getaway to the chapel…

…where he became aware of a female peacock, and was so struck by her presence that he exposed himself! 

Then, I walked along the main boulevard to the beach. More great views… and I took in some much needed sun.

After this, I visited on the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: The Mausoleum at Halicarnassus. Bodrum, believe it or not, was once the ancient city of Halicarnassus. There are a few ruins, including the above castle, lying about, but most have been destroyed. The Mausoleum, a huge tomb built to honor the King Mausoleus, was destroyed by the knights of Rhodes, intending to fortify St. Peters Castle against the invading Byzantines. There’s not much left of it now, but it was an interesting exhibit, with lovely gardens. 

I went out for a quick drink with my new friend Mujdat that night. He was born in France, to Turkish parents, and lived there until he was 19, His parents apparently declined to enroll him for dual citizenship, staying loyal to Turkey, so, after graduating high school, he had to leave. He can stay for up to six months in France now, but cannot work. An interesting predicament!