Sunday, January 4, 2009

Chinese Christmas: A Somber Affair

(This is Post 1 of 2. Since so much has happened since I last posted, I felt it prudent to separate the two. This post chronicles my Christmas experience in China.)

Christmas in China, as the title of this post might suggest, was a rather somber affair. I have not really missed my family until this moment, being constantly inundated with new and exciting things.

Christmas Eve was when homesickness hit me. I went to a carol service at a local Christian Church (which, to my shock, was one of 3 in Jinan!) with Stephanie. We got there a bit late, but where greeted to a wonderful effect. Walking into the small courtyard was like stepping into a whole different China. A cross lit up the surrounding mass of decorations; the voices of the choir drifted peacefully out of the quaint church, which was overflowing with people dressed in their Christmas best, smiling and celebrating with their families. It was so heartening knowing that even here I can find people that share my beliefs, and that God has found a way into this fortress of a country.

Though the church was packed, the Chinese quickly found another bench for the Laowai (foreigner) guests. We sat in a newly added front row as duets, ensembles, and choirs of all ages performed. Some of the performances were so full of emotion and devotion that I was nearly moved to tears. That eventually happened during the English performance of silent night by a charming children’s choir. I pictured my family, all in a row at church, singing the same song in unison. Needless to say, it was a beautiful and heartbreaking performance overall.

Getting up the next morning, there was no pile of presents under the tree, ready to be opened. There were no stockings stuffed with candy. There was no family, running around in pajamas, greeting each other, just like every year, with a smiling ‘Merry Christmas!’

Starting the day off in a bad mood, all the teachers met at Crown Plaza for a fancy lunch buffet. Most every one was dressed up, though I, who had managed to find a very festive sweater dress in an underground market (literally, a street underground crowed with stores of all kinds), was simply Christmassy. We chowed down for 3 hours, taking advantage of the all-inclusive beer to drown our sorrows a bit. Everyone seemed a bit down, a fact that was not helped by the meager amount of turkey and stuffing. I ate mostly sushi for my Christmas dinner, with a side of these adorable mini-cakes located next to the strawberry-chocolate fountain. 
After the meal, we had a Mad Elephant gift exchange. Gifts ranged from 3 beers to stationary sets. I ended up with a package of Ramen, a Tupperware container, and some chopsticks. The Rubik’s cubes were a big hit, and we subsequently spent much too long trying to solve them. One guy from another school, whose name has long since been forgotten, did it in 30 seconds. This made us feel really great about our IQ levels.

After lunch, some headed off to bowling, while others headed back home to phone family and wallow in our depression. All in all, not a good day on the Happy-o-Meter.

In the few days following Christmas, I felt really down. The holiday season is not one to spend away from your family, especially when you are in a strange country that doesn’t really seem to appreciate the holiday spirit. Sure, many stores had their employees sporting Christmas hats and Chinese Christmas carols playing in the background, but it was just not the same with out family. Miss you all so much!


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