Sunday, February 1, 2009

Chengdu: My Chinese Spring Festival Experience of a Lifetime

In honor of the Chinese Spring Festival, Andy, Emma, and I headed off Friday evening to spend our week holiday in Chengdu, a historical city in the Sichuan Province of China.

Saturday, after a short rest in our electric-blanketed hostel beds, we woke up bright and early to check our first tourist attraction off the list: the famous Giant Pandas. The pandas are most active in the morning, while being fed, hence the early start. The Pandas were adorable, especially the babies. The Red Pandas were also great to see. The Chinglish signs provided extra spice to the morning.
After watching pandas eat for nearly 3 hours, we were absolutely famished ourselves. Using the seemingly trusty map sponsored by our hostel, we attempted to find the well-known Pete's Tex Mex restaurant, of which we had heard glowing reviews from fellow travelers . After an hour of searching, we decided to give up. We headed to Hooters for a disappointing meal, not to mention a reminder of what I lack. Only on our bus ride home did we spot Pete's: located in the complete opposite direction than the map indicated. We cursed the flawed directions, and vowed to return.

That night, we headed to the famous Shamrock Bar with our new friend Alan, and then to a club noted on the handy Hostel Map. The club had apparently been closed since the map had been made as we saw upon arrival (not surprisingly), so we stepped into the first one we saw. We danced and laughed until the wee hours of the morning.
The next day was New Years Eve. We visited a famous shopping street, where many artisan goods were sold. The New Years decorations were gorgeous, though cheap looking, and there was a lively spirit in the air. Live performances, lions, tigers, and bears waiting in cages, and an abundance of red dominated the atmosphere. 
New Years Eve night was the most insane experience I have ever had, even more so than Carnaval in Cadiz, Spain. To start, we made dumplings at our hostel with a large group of people. We hung out until midnight, making new friends with our fellow travelers as we waited for the midnight celebration. As the clock struck twelve, everyone rushed outside to join the fireworks and merry-making; we had no idea the chaos that was to come. 
Our hostel was located on a side street, but this did not stop the utter madness. Fireworks boomed from every angle. Onlookers threw them at passing cars. The air was filled with the loud bangs and claps of fireworks echoing all over the city. People ran and shouted on the streets, and danced in the windows. The ground was covered in litter from the empty cases after only an hour, and  the celebration went on long after that. I can't do it any sort of justice with words, so here is a movie our hostel made. 


Like magic, it began to snow almost perfectly at New Year. Unable to go to sleep, we went to a temple close to the hostel, and, in the snow, we lit incense in a jam-packed courtyard of an ancient Chinese worship house. Most of the Chinese were wearing what we thought were devil horns, but turned out to be the horns of the Ox, in celebration of the new year's animal. It was simply unbelievable, unforgettable, and completely unnerving. I could not have asked for a more amazing experience.

The following day, we had a lie in. We headed to Pete's Tex-Mex for lunch, which was better food than we dreamed it would be. Not only did it more than satisfy my craving for good Mexican food, it also drowned me in delicious coffee, free refills, for only 15 yuan.

We relaxed the rest of the day, meandering around the old section of Chengdu. The streets were packed with people, all out with their families celebrating the Chun Yi, or New Years Day. As part of the crowd, I truly appreciated this once in a lifetime opportunity. I have been so lucky!
We called it an early night, subsequently waking up early the next day to begin our two day Chinese tour (yes, all in Chinese, run by Chinese, taken by Chinese) of Le Shan, followed by Emei Shan. The bus ride there was freezing, forcing us to huddle together in the back seat, using our combined body heat to stay our falling body temperatures. The bus stopped 3 times in the 2 hour journey, each time at snack shops and restaurants. Anxious and frustrated, we quickly forgot our grievances as we arrived at Le Shan, the Giant Buddha.
71 meters in height, Le Shan (or Da Fo, as the Chinese call it) is enormous. Carved into a cliff, surrounded by temples, and bordering a lake, this was one of the coolest things I have seen in China. Seriously, WOW.
That night, we stopped at another Chinese restaurant. In and out in 15 minutes, these places were clearly meant for mass feeding. After searching for some chocolate and beer, we tucked in for the night in our luxurious hotel room. Equipped with a fully clogged sink, a heater that blew only cold air, used condom wrappers, and flies on the wall were just a few of the perks. So desperate for our purchased beers, but lacking a bottle opener, Andy managed to creatively ease our pain, using only a hanger and a couple of keys, though cutting his fingers open in the process. McGyver potential!

The next day was another early one. Rejoining our Chinese tour group, we met our new tour guide as we bussed off to Mt. Emei (or Emei Shan in Chinese). Emei Shan is one of the most revered mountains in all of China. It is also home to wild monkeys, who have become so accustomed to the tourists that they beg for food, retaliating with force if denied or unsatisfied with the result. And, by George, they were satisfied. A throng of tourists hung over one fence to feed passing monkeys, who tread on scraps of old food, picking and choosing what they would eat from numerous out stretched hands. 
Our new tour guide made no effort to accommodate our lack of fluency in Chinese. Throughout the tour, he left us behind, completely ignored us, and even yelled at us for not understanding directions that were not even told to us in the first place. Though thoroughly frustrating, we did not lose sight of what what most important: the wonder and beauty of this mountain. 
After descending the mountain via cable car and bus, we toured the Baogua temple close by. It was simply gorgeous, and laden with comic moments, as usual. By the time we arrived home (after several more restaurant stops), we were exhausted and nearly frozen to the bone. The electric blankets and thick duvets caused us to die and come back to life again the next morning, rejuvenated and ready to have some fun.
Thursday was our last full day in Chengdu. We ate breakfast at Grandma's kitchen (burnt out on delicious Sichuan food from the two preceding days), which served a great western style breakfast. The day brought absolutely stunning weather, and we wandered around the main square of Chengdu, and into People's Park. Stripping out of our large coats and scarves, we felt the warmth of much needed sunshine. The park was buzzing with energy, and bursting with color. We boated around the lake for an hour, continually getting rammed into by other Chinese boats, who thought it was hysterical to purposely do so. Pictures galore were taken of us during this time. Wandering around the park later, we discovered multiple live music and dance performances, and not to mention a carnival. What a spectacular day!
That night was a celebration of our last night in Chengdu. Deciding Pete's Tex Mex needed another go, we enjoyed an excellent meal of chimichangas and margaritas with our new friends Paul, Kelly, and Cinja. After that, it was off to Carol's Too, another well known bar. Club 88, the supposed best club in Chengdu was next on our list: but was abandoned after a short time due to the bizarre atmosphere. How a club who plays "McDonalds, McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken and a Pizza Hut," followed by a hammed up version of "Happy Birthday", can get voted best club is beyond me.
Friday, we did not want to go home. We simply dreaded it. As if the airline sensed our resentment, our flight was delayed indefinitely. After 2 hours of waiting, all the passengers were taken to the airport hotel and given rooms. Unsure of how long we would be there, we bought some snacks and took naps. Finally, 4 hours later, we were bussed back to the airport and boarded our plane. We arrived home late on Friday night, still buzzing from an amazing vacation, and definitely not ready to go back to work the next morning.

Once I grab Andy's pictures (he was in charge of capturing the vacation, due to a fantanstic camera and remarkable photography skills), I will put them up here. As for now, it's off to Beijing for a few days! Forward, ho!

2 comments:

SnapScrapRepeat said...

Looks like another great excursion and terrific memory recorded in the book of Amy. I'll keep my eye out for the pics to come!

SnapScrapRepeat said...

hey - one more thing!! I have nominated you for a BLOG award over on my site! Copy,paste and follow the rules to put it on yours - so well deserved for rockin' this space out time and time again!